After living in Copacabana for years, these are my favorite things to do.
1. Eat trout on the floating islands. Trout in Copacabana is like pee in your neighborhood swimming pool – basically, it’s pretty hard to avoid. No matter where you go, you’re likely to find people trying to convince you to try their trout (which is where the pee metaphor comes to an end).
Unfortunately, most trout leaves a lot to be desired, mostly because eating establishments don’t get enough business and their trout winds up sitting around for a while. I’ve never gotten sick from eating the trout in Copacabana. I’ve just had lots of lousy overly fishy-tasting meals.
This is what makes the trout on the “Islas Flotantes” so incredible. The trout is so fresh, it literally is swimming in the lake until you’ve placed your order. It’s then deep fried and served with a less-than-delicious salad and bland white rice along with a few French fries, but it’s still the best trout in Copacabana. And it's easy to order - the restaurant offers no other choices! There's no menu. The waiter just comes around and asks how many plates of trout you want.
(One caution: You want to go the the "Islas Flotantes Playa Blanca de Chani." There is another place that offers floating islands and it feels like a depressing tourist trap. I don't know if the trout there is fresh. I just know that the ambience is depressing.)
As an added bonus, to get to the Floating Islands, it’s a fun half-hour motorboat ride (which costs around two to four dollars round trip and more than makes up for the bland rice). To get there, head to the lake and you’ll hear a guy shouting “Islas Flotantes” on shore. Make sure you ask him if you're going to "Playa Blanca" and not the other depressing Isla Flotante. Boats leave as soon as they fill up. They run from about lunchtime to dinner, depending on demand.
Oh wait, I forgot to mention the view! You’ll eat your bland rice while sitting in front of rocks jutting out of crystalline water. It’s so beautiful – I wanted to get married there. I nearly did. But the notary public was kind of a jerk so we wound up getting married in La Paz.
2. Climb the "Calvario." Some people think of a hike up to the top of the Calvario as great exercise. For Bolivians, it’s mostly a chance to commune with God, remembering the strenuous trek made by Jesus as he carried His cross. Whatever your reasons for climbing this small mountain, the reward waits at the top.
I like nature as much as the next guy, but I don’t always make a point to seek it out. However, the view at the top of the Calvario is enough to inspire awe even in the most jaded New Yorker. (For the record, I’m not a jaded New Yorker. I’m a jaded Angeleno.) There is a 180 degree view of water, stretching out as far as the eye can see. It’s one of the most beautiful natural sights I’ve ever seen.
To find the Calvario, basically look at any postcard of Copacabana. It’s the famous mountain pictured in all the tourist shots. When you’re in Copacabana, it’s hard to miss.
3. Chew coca leaves while sitting on the shores of Lake Titicaca. You’re in Bolivia. Come on, live a little. In spite of their bad reputation, when it comes to giving you a huge buzz, coca leaves actually leave a lot to be desired. Still, they give you a pleasant boost, slightly stronger than Starbuck’s coffee of the day and slightly weaker than a double espresso.
They’re completely legal in Bolivia, and so illegal in the United States. To buy coca, first locate the central market. From there, go to Michel Perez Street, where you’ll see a bunch of hardware stores. On the other side of the street are several stores selling grains where you’ll also see bins of coca leaves. I usually get five bolivianos’ worth. Ask for “una bolsa de cinco bolivianos.” You might also try “lejia,” which makes the effect of the coca stronger. Lejia is soft and slightly sweet and you take tiny nibbles from time to time which you store in your cheek along with your wad of coca.
When it comes to chewing coca leaves (“called pichando”), first take the stem out of a coca leaf by splitting the leaf in two. Then stick the pieces of the leaf into your mouth. Do this over and over again until there is a big ball in one of your cheeks. You’re not really supposed to chew the coca, just leave it in your mouth with tiny pieces of lejia (which dissolve quickly) for hours at a time.
Have fun! But be sure to leave all evidence of your good time behind in Bolivia.
4. Get blessed by a shaman. As you huff and wheeze your way up the mountain known as “el Calvario,” (I’m not saying you’re out of shape. It’s that we’re at 13,000 ft. for God’s sake!) take a well-deserved rest halfway up. There you’ll see men wearing brightly colored alpaca pointy hats waving around smoking pans and chanting in Aymara. This, my friends, is your local neighborhood shaman, called a “yatiri” in Bolivia.
For a donation, he’ll chant over you and make offerings to Pachamama, the Andean Mother Earth, often by pouring alcohol into the ground and burning coca leaves. Even if you have no idea what the guy is saying, remember that this is going to make a great video for Youtube. As for paying him, he’ll usually ask for you to decide how much to contribute (“Tu cariño.”). If you give him a hundred-boliviano-bill, you’re sure to make him happy.
5. Explore the "Bolivian side" of Copacabana. Walk in the opposite direction of the beach, past the main plaza, until you start heading downhill. Soon Copacabana will start to look a lot different and you'll spot herds of sheep and llamas and another lake shore, one that isn't filled with tourists. There isn't anywhere to spend money. It's just nice being here. And if you want to be here for a while, consider staying at one of our cabins. Click here for more info.
Oh and one more thing: If you’re really brave, try cow penis soup. It’s called “caldo de cardán” and it’s supposed to be a powerful aphrodisiac. There’s only one place in town that makes it. You’ll find it on Calle Jauregui, a few steps past Plaza Sucre as you’re heading toward the lake (it will be on your left). You’ll recognize it because it has a big “Caldo de cardán” sign out front. And don’t count on being served anything else. There’s nothing but bovine genitals on the menu. Bon apetit!
Unfortunately, most trout leaves a lot to be desired, mostly because eating establishments don’t get enough business and their trout winds up sitting around for a while. I’ve never gotten sick from eating the trout in Copacabana. I’ve just had lots of lousy overly fishy-tasting meals.
This is what makes the trout on the “Islas Flotantes” so incredible. The trout is so fresh, it literally is swimming in the lake until you’ve placed your order. It’s then deep fried and served with a less-than-delicious salad and bland white rice along with a few French fries, but it’s still the best trout in Copacabana. And it's easy to order - the restaurant offers no other choices! There's no menu. The waiter just comes around and asks how many plates of trout you want.
(One caution: You want to go the the "Islas Flotantes Playa Blanca de Chani." There is another place that offers floating islands and it feels like a depressing tourist trap. I don't know if the trout there is fresh. I just know that the ambience is depressing.)
As an added bonus, to get to the Floating Islands, it’s a fun half-hour motorboat ride (which costs around two to four dollars round trip and more than makes up for the bland rice). To get there, head to the lake and you’ll hear a guy shouting “Islas Flotantes” on shore. Make sure you ask him if you're going to "Playa Blanca" and not the other depressing Isla Flotante. Boats leave as soon as they fill up. They run from about lunchtime to dinner, depending on demand.
Oh wait, I forgot to mention the view! You’ll eat your bland rice while sitting in front of rocks jutting out of crystalline water. It’s so beautiful – I wanted to get married there. I nearly did. But the notary public was kind of a jerk so we wound up getting married in La Paz.
2. Climb the "Calvario." Some people think of a hike up to the top of the Calvario as great exercise. For Bolivians, it’s mostly a chance to commune with God, remembering the strenuous trek made by Jesus as he carried His cross. Whatever your reasons for climbing this small mountain, the reward waits at the top.
I like nature as much as the next guy, but I don’t always make a point to seek it out. However, the view at the top of the Calvario is enough to inspire awe even in the most jaded New Yorker. (For the record, I’m not a jaded New Yorker. I’m a jaded Angeleno.) There is a 180 degree view of water, stretching out as far as the eye can see. It’s one of the most beautiful natural sights I’ve ever seen.
To find the Calvario, basically look at any postcard of Copacabana. It’s the famous mountain pictured in all the tourist shots. When you’re in Copacabana, it’s hard to miss.
3. Chew coca leaves while sitting on the shores of Lake Titicaca. You’re in Bolivia. Come on, live a little. In spite of their bad reputation, when it comes to giving you a huge buzz, coca leaves actually leave a lot to be desired. Still, they give you a pleasant boost, slightly stronger than Starbuck’s coffee of the day and slightly weaker than a double espresso.
They’re completely legal in Bolivia, and so illegal in the United States. To buy coca, first locate the central market. From there, go to Michel Perez Street, where you’ll see a bunch of hardware stores. On the other side of the street are several stores selling grains where you’ll also see bins of coca leaves. I usually get five bolivianos’ worth. Ask for “una bolsa de cinco bolivianos.” You might also try “lejia,” which makes the effect of the coca stronger. Lejia is soft and slightly sweet and you take tiny nibbles from time to time which you store in your cheek along with your wad of coca.
When it comes to chewing coca leaves (“called pichando”), first take the stem out of a coca leaf by splitting the leaf in two. Then stick the pieces of the leaf into your mouth. Do this over and over again until there is a big ball in one of your cheeks. You’re not really supposed to chew the coca, just leave it in your mouth with tiny pieces of lejia (which dissolve quickly) for hours at a time.
Have fun! But be sure to leave all evidence of your good time behind in Bolivia.
4. Get blessed by a shaman. As you huff and wheeze your way up the mountain known as “el Calvario,” (I’m not saying you’re out of shape. It’s that we’re at 13,000 ft. for God’s sake!) take a well-deserved rest halfway up. There you’ll see men wearing brightly colored alpaca pointy hats waving around smoking pans and chanting in Aymara. This, my friends, is your local neighborhood shaman, called a “yatiri” in Bolivia.
For a donation, he’ll chant over you and make offerings to Pachamama, the Andean Mother Earth, often by pouring alcohol into the ground and burning coca leaves. Even if you have no idea what the guy is saying, remember that this is going to make a great video for Youtube. As for paying him, he’ll usually ask for you to decide how much to contribute (“Tu cariño.”). If you give him a hundred-boliviano-bill, you’re sure to make him happy.
5. Explore the "Bolivian side" of Copacabana. Walk in the opposite direction of the beach, past the main plaza, until you start heading downhill. Soon Copacabana will start to look a lot different and you'll spot herds of sheep and llamas and another lake shore, one that isn't filled with tourists. There isn't anywhere to spend money. It's just nice being here. And if you want to be here for a while, consider staying at one of our cabins. Click here for more info.
Oh and one more thing: If you’re really brave, try cow penis soup. It’s called “caldo de cardán” and it’s supposed to be a powerful aphrodisiac. There’s only one place in town that makes it. You’ll find it on Calle Jauregui, a few steps past Plaza Sucre as you’re heading toward the lake (it will be on your left). You’ll recognize it because it has a big “Caldo de cardán” sign out front. And don’t count on being served anything else. There’s nothing but bovine genitals on the menu. Bon apetit!
